Coat collar



May 11, 1937. M, RQSENWASSEfQ 2,079,877

COAT COLLAR Filed Dec. 6, 1935 24 2/ 2/ g 20 2 XV /6 n .12 "I, |1 ||||r|||||l I'fllllIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIlIIIIIII I N VEN TOR, 7/);62 PoJw/WaJse/r BY%7/M ATTORNEYS.

Patented May 11, 1937 UNITED s'rArss LPATENT OFFICE COAT COLLAR Myer lftcsenwasser, Kansas City, Mo.

Application December 6, 1935, Serial No. 53,199

5 Claims.

This invention relates to garments generally, and specifically to collar constructions wherein is employed layers of superimposed fabric such as found in the well known coat collar, and the primary object of this invention is the provision of elements and stitching in coat collars which will render them more desirable in the many ways hereinafter set down.

One of the most important aims of this invention is the provision of a coat collar structure having as a part thereof, a specially placed and formed stay which serves to neatly secure together the superimposed layers of fabric forming the collar at the ends thereof.

Another important object of this invention is to provide a coat collar structure having as a part thereof, a series of stitchings, at least one of which is of the type known as a lock stitch, that extend along one of the longitudinal edges of the finished collar and both ends thereof, along lines spaced inwardly from the top panel of the collar so that a neatly finished structure is presented. In this manner objections are overcome which are present in coat collars of the conventional type and which include, among others, a bulky end, maladjustment of parts because of shrinkage, curling, bunching and other features which it is desirable to overcome.

A still further important object of this invention is the provision of a coat collar structure that can be quickly and easily formed either by hand or by machine through the employment of a sequence of operations that are simple, yet effective in creating a collar of desirable characteristics.

Other objects of the invention will appear during the course of the following specification and the advantages attained through the employmentof this invention will be apparent to one skilled in the art. Referring to the accompanying drawing:

Figure 1 is a fragmentary view of a coat, having as a part thereof, a collar made in accordance with the present invention. I

Fig. 2 is a stretch-out, rear plan view of th novel collar attached to a garment.

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary view illustrating the relation of parts of the collar during the first step in forming the same.

Fig. 4 is a cross section through said parts, taken on line IV-IV of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary view of parts of the collar as they are assembled during the second step in the formation of the collar.

Fig. 6 is a sectional view through said parts, taken on line VIVI of Fig. 5.

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary view of parts of the collar illustrating their relation during one step in the formation of the collar when the same is inside out, and,

Figs. 8 and 9 are enlarged, fragmentary, detailed, sectional views through the finished collar structure, taken on lines VIII-VIII and IXIX respectively of Fig. 1.

Parts of the collar structure which are combined in an unique manner to form a desirable coat collar are the top panel l2 of garment material, the buckram stiffening lining M, the under facing l6 of garment. or similar material, and stays l8 at the ends of the collar. The use of stays l8 at the ends and in the manner hereafter set forth eliminates bulk and permits the use of a lock stitch to extend completely around the ends and one longitudinal edge of the superimposed top panel and under facing.

After cutting the aforementioned parts to size H and shape, top panel l2 and buckram lining M are slightly overlapped as illustrated in Fig. 3 and stitched together by a line of ordinary stitching l9. In performing this step, lining I4 is laid over the wrong side of top panel l2. As the next step, under facing I6 is laid over buckram lining M with the marginal portion along edge I! thereof lying against the right side of top panel l2 so that one longitudinal edge of top panel 12 is between lining I4 and under facing I6, Figs. 5 and 6. A lock stitch 20 is used to secure together the longitudinal edge I! of under facing I6, top panel l2 and the underlying longitudinal edge of buckram lining [4. This lock stitch, or

ornamental lock stitch as it might be called, consists of a line of straightaway stitches having a sideway stitch formed at regular intervals at right angles tothe straightaway stitching, and resembles in appearance, when the collar is completed, the well known felling stitch. Just before this stitching 20 is completed, stay IS, in a flat condition, is moved into position between the superimposed ends of under facing l6 and lining [4. ends of under facing 16 so that stays R8 are secured between buckram lining l4 and under facing M5 by lock stitch 28 as shown in Fig. 5.

Top panel is now folded back upon itself along a line to form edge 2! and the collar should then be turned over so that lining I4 is uppermost as seen in Fig. '7. A line of plain stitching 22 is now formed to hold together stay l8 and the later inturned marginal portion 24 of top panel Ill. The next step is merely the conventional one of base The lock stitch 20 is continued along the I stitching together, by hand or machine, the buckram lining It and under facing I6.

Stay I8 is next trimmed to conform to the edges of top panel l2 which now underlie the stay (Fig. '7), and the thus assembled unit is turned so that the now inside faces become outside faces and so that stay l8 assumes a U-shaped form in transverse cross section. The buckram lining H3 is engaged between the walls of stay l8 and secured in place by lock stitch 20 which extends therethrough and through under facing IE and the intermediate wall of stay 18. The other wall is secured to the inturned margin 24 of top panel l2 by stitches 22.

The inturned margin 24 of top panel l2 extends along the free longitudinal edge thereof when the collar is in normal position and stitching l9 secures together this inturned margin along the longitudinal edge and buckram lining I 4. In addition to this securement, the lock stitch 2B secures together the longitudinal edge of under facing l6 and the longitudinal edge of buckram lining l4, and since said lock stitch 2|] passes through inturned margin 24, it will be seen that the parts are secured together by a double stitching so that in event the outer lock stitch should prove faulty, stitch I9 will hold the parts together.

The collar construction just mentioned presents a pleasing appearance and the edges of the under facing are bound down along the exposed lengths thereof by the lock stitch which has the appearance of hand felling, so as to leave a smooth edge adjacent a rolled edge of the top panel.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. A coat collar structure comprising a top panel; an under facing having its two ends and one longitudinal edge substantially co-extensive with the two ends and one longitudinal edge of the top panel; a lining between said top panel and under facing; a stay between the said lining and said top panel and between the lining and under facing along the ends of the same; and a lock stitch along the two ends and the said one longitudinal edge of the said under facing, securing together the said top panel, lining, and under facing along the said longitudinal edge of the under facing, and securing together the said lining, under facing and stay along the ends of said under facing, said top panel having an inturned margin at the ends respectively separately stitched to the proximal stay, said inturned margins being between the stays and under side of the top panel.

2. A coat collar structure comprising a top panel; an under facing having its two ends and one longitudinal edge substantially co-extensive with the two ends and one longitudinal edge of the top panel; a lining between said top panel and under facing; a stay between the said lining and said top panel and between the. lining and under facing along the ends of the same; and a lock stitch along the two ends and the said one longitudinal edge of the said under facing, securing together the said top panel, lining, and under facing along the said longitudinal edge of the under facing, and securing together the said lining, under facing and stay along the ends of said under facing, said top panel having an inturned margin at the ends respectively independently stitched to the portion of said stay thereunder.

3. In a coat collar structure, a top panel having inturned marginal edges along both ends and one longitudinal side thereof; an under facing; a lining between the top panel and under facing; a stay at each end respectively of said top panel, each stay being formed of fabric, U-shaped in transverse cross section and embracing the proximal end of said lining between the walls thereof; a stitching securing the inturned margin of the top panel to one wall of the said stay; and a stitching securing together the other wall of said stay and the under facing and said lining.

4. In a coat collar structure, a top panel having inturned marginal edges along both ends and one longitudinal side thereof; an under facing; a lining between the top panel and under facing; a stay at each end respectively of said top panel, each stay being formed of fabric, U-shaped in transverse cross section and embracing the proximal end of said lining between the walls thereof; a stitching securing the top panel to one wall of the said stay; and a lock stitching securing together the edge of said under facing and said stay along the other wall and adjacent the bight thereof.

5. The method of making a coat collar structure which consists in forming a relatively large top panel and an under facing of garment material, and a lining of fabric all having substantially the same trapezoidal form; overlapping the marginal portions of the top panel, and lining along one longitudinal edge thereof with the top panel face up and with the lining thereunder; stitching the overlapping portions together in this position; placing the under facing in register with the lining; positioning a stay at each end of the under facing between the same and the underlying lining with a portion extending longitudinally outwardly; stitching the parts together in this position by sewing along the ends and overlapping longitudinal edge of the under facing; folding the top panel back against the lining and projecting portions of the stays; stitching the stays and underlying part of the top panel along a line parallel and close to the respective ends of the lining; and then turning the structure inside out to cause the stay to assume a U-shape having the under facing and lining stitched to one leg thereof and an inturned margin of the top panel stitched to the other leg thereof with the said stitching close to the bight of the U-shaped stay.

MYER ROSENWASSER. 

